The spark was most likely an indication of a short circuit that has blown the running light circuit which is why none of the running lights are working. You mentioned the fuses on the truck but if the tent camper is plugged into the truck then there can be separate tow package fuses that you will need to check. Find their locations using the owners manual.
You will also want to make sure that the connectors are all clean and corrosion free inside and out. Any and all lights will need to... view full answer...
This sounds like a ground issue. Ground problems normally show up when there is more draw on a system such as when you have the running lights on and then use another function like a turn signal or brake light.
Make sure that the vehicle side and trailer side connectors are clean and free of corrosion inside and out. The main connector grounds should be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces. The light grounds should also be attached to clean and corrosion free bare... view full answer...
First thing you need to do is thoroughly clean the trailer connector on your tow vehicle and trailer. Next, what I would recommend you do is check the ground strap that runs from the trailer connector to the trailer frame. I would make sure that wire is also making good contact to an unpainted metal surface. If you can't get your lights to ground decently to the trailer frame you can also run them both back to the main ground wire I just mentioned.
I attached an FAQ on trailer wiring for... view full answer...
That's a tough one! You have already done everything I would recommend on the trailers side. It is definitely a ground issue and the only thing you have left is the plug end on your truck or the ground wire from the plug to the trucks frame.
Check the ground connection to the frame of your 2005 Ford Ranger first then if that doesn't get it done put a new 4-way flat on the Ranger like the Hopkins Endurance 4-Way Flat Trailer Connector Socket part # HM48030.
The ground wire on the trailer... view full answer...
I talked to the vendor about this situation and was told it is a common thing with the F-250. They stated that the screen can get flipped like that when you put your truck into reverse and then switch to the cargo camera and by doing so it causes the already-engaged factory reverse camera to partially disengage while the cargo/bed camera activates. The solution is that if you choose to engage the cargo camera during this time, you will want to flip the toggle switch to the cargo/bed camera... view full answer...
The Tork Lift camper tie-downs we offer are all meant for the 6-1/2 foot bed, not the 5 foot 7 inch bed on your truck.
CR Brophy offers the # HSSF which would work with your truck, as long as there is 2 inches of clearance under the bed lip as shown in the photo I provided. You'd also need the tie-down hardware package, part # TDHP. The HSSF would actually clamp to the underside of the lip on the bed side rail. view full answer...
There isn't a tonneau cover out there that is totally water tight, but the BAKFlip F1 Hard Tonneau Cover # BAK72203 that you referenced has rubber seals where all of the moving parts are which help to keep the water out and also has a drain system that works to direct any water that gets past the seals to outside of the truck bed. This cover is one of the best options for keeping water out of the truck bed so you will be happy with that aspect of it. view full answer...
First you will want to check the nylock nut inside the Tail Clamp Assembly # EX1035 to determine if the spring needs some tension removed allowing it to stretch further and clamp on your bed rail. If this does not work and it is a clamp you are replacing please let me know what cover and truck you have as there are some clamps specifically for certain vehicles like the Clamp # EX1042 which is specific to certain Ford Super Duty trucks depending on the tonneau cover. view full answer...
To add an additional 7-way to the bed of your 2022 Chevy Silverado 2500 we have kits like the Hopkins part # 41157 which plugs inline with the 7-way at the rear of your truck and gives you an additional one you can install up in the truck bed or wherever is most convenient for you. view full answer...
The Curt OEM Ball Bearing Gooseneck Balls like the # C630-652 you have are notorious for being difficult to remove. This is is due to the small lever on the top that doesn't really give you enough leverage to fully open the handle easily.
To remove the stuck gooseneck ball from your New Silverado's gooseneck hitch you will need to use some penatraiting oil in the top lever, and around the sides of the hitch to get into the ball bearing. Using a hammer to hit the hitch ball back and forth... view full answer...
Your B&W Companion Slider # BWRVK3400 is an older version which at the time fit all the truck beds. According to B&W they modified this around 8 years ago to fit the You can remove the plastic rib and elongate the grooves to get the ribs to fully sit inside the bed ribs. If this doesn't drop your hitch far enough to latch inside your B&W Turnover Ball # BWGNRK1116 you can loosen the hitch bolt for the Companion to extend further down inside the receiver. You may need to spray in some cleaner... view full answer...
I have a couple troubleshooting steps to suggest. The first thing I noticed was that the part number for this question is the TracRac SR Sliding Truck Bed Ladder Rack # TH43002XT-501. This model of the SR is customized for the 2020 Ford F-150 6-1/2 foot bed. The part needed for the 2020 Ford F-150 5-1/2 foot bed is part # TH43002XT-508. If you have the # TH43002XT-501, it will not fit your truck.
Another thing to consider is if the stake pocket tabs have been removed from the stakes on... view full answer...
From your pictures, it looks like you have a plastic bed liner in your 2004 Ford F-350. The Demco Recon Gooseneck-to-5th Wheel Trailer Hitch Adapter # DM8550045 requires that the hitch have direct contact with the truck bed and cannot be installed on top of a plastic bed liner.
This is likely what is causing the hitch to turn. You will need to either remove the bed liner or cutout the part of the bed liner the hitch sits on and then ensure things are still properly torqued. view full answer...
For your 2019 Ford Ranger with Backflip G2 # BAK226332 there is not a specific fit available that will be directly compatible with your 5 foot bed and folding tonneau cover. If it were me, I would get the Adarac Pro Series Custom Truck Bed Ladder Rack - Aluminum - 500 lbs # A4000964 knowing it is a fit for a F-150 5 foot 6 inch bed and the rails will need to be trimmed to fit but the vertical pieces will work well with your cover.
The Yakima Overhaul you referenced will not be compatible. view full answer...
If you're not getting trailer brakes with the brake pedal, use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 on the red wire exiting the rear of the brake controller. That circuit should go hot with the brake pedal applied. If you're not getting power on that wire, you likely have a blown fuse on the 3rd stop lamp circuit. It's possible when you removed the original bed, something got shorted and blew the fuse.
As far as the vehicle taillights go, they should be wired into the original circuited that... view full answer...
I have not heard of a dead vehicle battery causing trailer brakes to lock up, but that would not be the weirdest thing I have heard of when it comes to trailer problems.
The first thing I would do is unplug the brake controller for a few minutes and plug it back in. This will reset the brake controller. After you reconnect the brake controller, I would use a circuit tester, like part # PTW2993, to test the 5 o'clock pin in the trailer connector at the back of your Jeep Liberty (see photo).... view full answer...
The Timbren Rear Suspension Enhancement System # TDVRRT on your 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan do ride close to the axle, but your photo seems closer than normal. We have had some folks mention that when unloaded the Timbren springs ride pretty rough and are really nice when loaded. As far as a banging noise along with the closeness of your axle, that makes me think your suspension may be not quite as nice as it should be. With 90K on your vehicle, you may be due for new shocks and possibly... view full answer...
If you tested the 7-Way at the rear of your tow vehicle then the next thing you will want to do is test the 7-Way on your trailer to make sure that power is getting to the brakes. Using a 12V battery, like the one from your tow vehicle, ground the negative terminal and then test the pin that corresponds to the brake controller pin on your tow vehicle side 7-Way. This is typically the pin in the 7 o'clock position on your trailer side connector (see attached picture).
If your Dexter Electric... view full answer...
We have a really detailed guide for picking out the best truck for fifth wheel towing that I attached a link to on this page.
For a trailer as heavy as yours though your best option is to go with long bed, diesel truck with a dually rear wheel axle as new as you can afford. view full answer...
The fact that you're getting 'bleed over' from one function to the other indicates a ground problem. Check all the ground connection on the plug that joins the camper and the truck, and the harness on the truck that connects to the tow package wiring. Somewhere you have a loose ground connection.
I'll link you to a help article about troubleshooting trailer wiring. The article is about towed trailers, but the same advice outlined in the article would hold true for a truck bed camper like yours. view full answer...
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